I was going to just report about my experience so far with lubrication of the gears on my SP14 Moon Phase clock. But I decided it would be cool to start a Post about the subject in general to see what experience others are having. Maybe we can find an ideal lubricant. Which, I don't know, this one I used may be it. So if you would like to share, please post what lubricant you are using and what experience you have had with it. Here is mine.
When I was first starting up and breaking in my clock, I ran it dry (no escapement) to break it in with whatever weight I needed to make it free-run. After brushing some of the Synthetic Gun Oil (shown below) into the pinions using a small brush, while it was free-running, it really took off. And I found I could make it free-run on it's own with significantly less weight. Over the next day, I applied this lubricant, very thin film each time, three more times, mostly to the faster running gears, allowing a few hours in between each application. I honesty think this has helped my SP14 clock run well. Currently ticking along nicely since it was started, and keeping time very accurately.
My theory is that the microscopic Teflon particles, and other additives, suspended in the oil get embedded between the layer lines of the working gear surfaces, and over time and a few applications, builds up enough to fill in the voids and provide much smoother, less friction working surfaces. Doing it while the clock is free-running not only helps distribute the film evenly, but also serves to ram the suspended additive particles into the layer voids. My thinking in regards to using a PTFE based technology, compared to something like a grease, is that it is less "sticky" than a grease product.
Anyways, not sure if this is real or not, just a theory. But my clock does run with very little friction, at least for now. Only time will tell how this behaves in the long run.
Here is a link that has a description of the product. Show us your lubricant.
Regarding Teflon: I tried the following on my SP14 Moon Phase clock. For each gear, I'd put it on an arbor, spin it rapidly, then gently spray dry teflon on it for 2 to 5 seconds as it spins. It is hard to know if this is a good long-term strategy, but it seems like a good way to get the benefit of Teflon without the negatives and unknowns of a liquid. My clock's been running well for two months now. I used "CRC Dry PTFE Lube" available at amazon as: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Registered-Lubricant-Technology-Plastic-Safe/dp/B0013J84BY
So far I've built:
- two SP13s
- two SP5s
- an SP14
- an SP15
and each of them has been working perfectly for months (a year in a couple of cases) with pulley weights ranging from 2 to 2.5 kg.
My experience is that to minimize friction, it's essential to cut the axles at least a tenth of a millimeter shorter than the space between the frame and enlarge the holes in the gears.
Ultimately, the gear train, as I've said before, should "float on air."
I limit the WD-40 to a spray on the bearings after washing them overnight in thinner.
At most, I put a little lithium grease on the pinions.
This is my experience.
I ordered the M-Pro-7 gun oil, but canceled my order after reading a couple of reviews that say it gums up after a while. One reviewer said he left a drop out and it gummed up after a month. Not what you'd want in a clock. I have an Easybuild clock with an 8 day movement and no lubricant at the moment. The first time I started it, it ran for 16 hours before stopping. I increased the weight from 6 to 7 pounds and for the next week it was stopped twice daily to adjust the pendulum, but didn't stop by itself. However, it now stops after anything from 2 to 12 hours. It seems to have a healthy pendulum swing when running. I see WD40 mentioned, but regular WD40 is a water dispersant, not a lubricant.
I use the very popular WD40, applying a very light layer on the axles: I spray a small amount on a cloth and take the axles to lubricate them.
The thing that in my opinion is fundamental is to cut the axles to the right size so that there is a play of at least one millimeter once the chassis is mounted and file the tips of the axles with a Dremel.
Another fundamental thing is to enlarge the holes in the gears.
In the end the entire gear train must practically "float in the air" reducing friction to a minimum.
On the pinions, as recommended by Steve, I sometimes applied a very light layer of lithium grease.
My experience is based on the following watches:
- SP5
- SP13 printed twice
- SP14 with the old gear design
All 4 watches work perfectly with just 2 kg of weight on the pulley!
The SP14 watch even without even a little grease on the gears!
All 4 clocks have a pendulum swing of 5 to 6 degrees, making them extremely reliable.
Thanks for the post. I'm having a hard time finding a teflon lubricant in liquid form. I purchased "dupont teflon mulit-use performance lubricant" on amazon, but when it arrived, it doesn't say "teflon" anywhere, it says "ceramic technology." When I look at M-Pro 7 on amazon, it does not claim to be teflon either.
I'm not saying it doesn't teflon, but why do you think it does?
There are spray "dry teflon" lubricants available, for instance "CRC Dry PTFE Lube", but I'm not sure how to apply them to the printed gears.
That seems like a good idea.
Most traditional clock repairers say oil on the gear teeth attracts dust that acts like sandpaper to wear down the teeth. We have to be realistic that 3D printed clocks are unlikely to be handed down for hundreds of years. LOL
I use two lubricant types. Generic white lithium grease and ProGold Xtreme Chain Lube with MFR Technology. I always thought the chain lube was a PTFE or Teflon based product. The datasheet is a bit mysterious about what is actually in it. The gun oil is equally mysterious, although I see a few gun oils with MFR that specifically mention that they do NOT contain Teflon. I suspect that both the chain lubes and gun lubes are somewhat similar.
I always add a small layer of lithium grease to the ratchet arms. Some "sticky gears" also get lithium grease on the pinion teeth. It gets added using a toothpick and the excess wiped away. This leaves a very thin layer on the surface with possibly a bit more inside the grooves. It makes a huge difference in the ratchet, allowing the arms to go back to the stop positions. A similar effect takes place on the pinion teeth. A clock that was suffering from sticky gears or a sluggish escapement will always run better with a layer of lithium grease.
I usually add the chain lube to the bearings after cleaning them with alcohol. It leaves a thin lubricating layer after the solvent evaporates.
I am hoping that the new gear tooth profile used in the updated SP5 design will reduce the need for any lubrication on the gear teeth. The clocks seem to run strong with smaller drive weights.