sp12 Pendulum Arm

Hello,

First, let me repeat that your clock came out beautiful. Nice work!

I meant to come back and ask about your clock hands. They look great! Did you 3D print the inner, copper/golden part, or did you paint or otherwise finish the inner part somehow post printing?

Well! the clock is running. What a bugger to dial in must have taken it apart 10 times ha! It's really a work of art from very good designer tho. Had to go with the 8-day gear and extra weight extension. Filled the two jar BB's finish filling with pennies all in about 10.5lbs weight. For some reason the tiny inner ring on the face did not print well just peeled it off. Funny cause the outer ring was over extruded heated or whatever. Other than that, it's a work of art but really love a functional clock. A few pictures on the wall included. Now with the comment done the questions. Steve have you ever given thought for 623 bearings on the main arbor gear 4-36-8 and one in the rear for gear 6-32. That seemed to be where I had the most binding up. Afterward dialing in the pallet and pendulum was swinging free made it run. I tried super lube in the bearings at my first mistake. They need to be free of any lube least in my case. Then dry powdered Teflon was

even bigger mistake. The best I came up with to get it to run was a little super lube on the shafts and pallet lands. Great print will update later on the run time and keeping time ha! Oh! one more do you think 10.5lbs is too much weight?

This is where I'm at so far got a few gears in there. Minute shaft is notched probably the hardest part. I know I wouldn't make a clocksmith ha!

Sure does never thought to use that, thanks.

Hope you guys don't mind a lot of questions. But here goes, does anyone know the length of the notch on the sp12 minute hand arbor. I know instructions say print the hand and fit it, but it would be nice to know the exact length to cut. It would be easier with that measurement. Thanks. and for some reason correcting spelling tries to add an underline link on the typing I can't get rid of editing ha!

Sosalty is correct. Start with the normal length.

The others are only needed as a backup in case you need additional adjustment range for setting the proper rate. This should only be needed in case the bob or shafts are a different density than mine. In this case, the effective length of the pendulum may need the extra adjustment provided by the long or short shafts.

Steve

You're welcome. Yeah, just go with the Normal length center sections to get you a Normal length pendulum to start with. Break your clock in and after that, start trying to dial in your beat using the bob adjustment. Then, only change to the optional center sections if you find that your out of bob adjustment range. Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

Cheers!

Sounds good to me. I thought maybe it was if you didn't have a printer bed big enough or something like that. Thanks for the reply I'll go with the normal first and hope it works out.

Hello,

I haven't built this clock, working on my first, SP14. But I think I understand the concept and know the answer. Steve can correct if not.

The different pendulum arm lengths do not correspond to the run time gear options. Only the different gear, and sometimes adjustments in weight, to change the run time. The short and long pendulum arms are optional and correspond to the center section of the overall pendulum. Provided in case you need to change the basic length of the pendulum, beyond the bob adjustable range, to get your beat dialed in. So for example, if you are needing to slow down the beat, but the bob is already at the max bottom using the normal arm sections, you could switch the center, normal section, to the optional longer section, which would give you a longer pendulum and allow you to move the bob back to the top, and begin lowering it again for added adjustment range.

Hope I'm right and hope it helps.

Cheers!