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Balls are not moving through toggle gate, toggle doesn't rotate clear of ball path. If I manually rotate toggle it it lifts up off of pivot point because it contacts the toggle body in the radious area and does not lay flat in body.

If forced so ball clears the toggle lifts up off of pibot point.

Really great clock, I have built several of Steve's clocks, I think this is the best so far. I am an old time kit basher and like to make my own thing which is difficult to do with Steve's clocks because he does a great job at designing and engineering.

My first goal is to add a power wind so I don't have to crank the balls every day. Done! And it works much better then I was expecting - in the proof of concept stage so I have to clean things up.

working my way through the prints, and reading instructions, noticed that on page 27, the dial assembly does not match the parts, frame H1 screws in from below now, not the back.

i put my carbon fiber pendulum files in a zip file and tried to upload it and it wont let me.

When debugging the electro magnetic clock I tried a lot of different combinations of the 2 pawls but when the second hand was between the 2 and 4 I would always get double clicks. I finally solved this by balancing the second hand. I glued small washers one at a time on the back side of the second hand counter balance until it was perfectly balanced. I ended up using 3 small washers and now the clock has been keeping very good time for 2 weeks now.

A question for Steve ... Do you think the clock would print and work ok at 75% size?

Cheers

Sharing this for anyone who is considering a clock. THis is my first ever 3D print experience.

Still enjoying printing. So many lessons learned by trial and error. No manual, and no other person to coach me. I had all the typical problems. I didn't know what I didn't know. Adhesion, positioning, adhesion, positioning, Z Offset. And using the 64G microSD card on a borrowed Creality Ender 3 Neo

1. Tonight, I discovered how to slow down the print speed. So far, that is working with the face in Compact Clock 16. I chose half speed because I've wasted two days printing frame parts that failed after hours. And another six tries that did not adhere. I'm hoping this will solve first layer adhesion. Slow learner. 2. Fitting the larger back frame onto the bed has proven very challenging. Creality slicer would not work for me. The slicer sees a small tab…

First of all thanks to Steve for the excellent clocks!!! I am a 3D-print beginner and my first project was the SP14. The clock is running reliable with 3 kg. I got a 3kg steel rod with 50 mm diameter. Unfortunately the rod did not fit into the weight shell provided by Steve. My first idea was to enlarge the extension but in that case the screw driver will be too short. Two or more extension might be possible but it doesn't look so nice. Finally, I created a new weight shell fitting exactly to my steel rod and since we are doing 3D-printing I avoided the screws by using a thread for upper and lower shell. In order to avoid supporting structures the treads have a chamfer which results in a small gap. Maybe, somebody has an idea for improvment.

I made a simple modification to the stl where I got rid of everything on the pendulum arm except the 2 ends and replaced the length of it with 2 3mm carbon fiber rods. It made the clock extremely temperature independent and way more accurate. Steve Peterson would it be possible for me to send you the file and have you include it in your print list for sp13? My email is jicfox7@gmail.com