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Just building my second clock, completed large moon phase, and building small pendulum (SP05B), and noticed in the instructions on page 45, you indicate to use 3” 3mm rod for pallet assembly, that should be 3 1/2” rod surely, also says 323 bearing instead of 623 bearings
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Hi Steve. Here is the video showing the bounce as I shared in an email to you. Let me know your thoughts. The clock runs great and keeps time. Thanks!
The escapement operation looks great. The flat "dead" surfaces make contact with plenty of lock. It may even have enough lock with the 101% scale.
The slight bounce may just be excess energy from the extra drive weight added when you were debugging the initial problem. It would likely run just as well with a smaller drive weight, but I would let it run as is for a few days.
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Steve, I'm getting the dreaded Hull line on my box bases. Have tried everything that's out in there on the Internet to try and fix it. The floor always seems to shrink where the floor and walls meet. But yet all the bases I've ever printed of your clocks print out flawless. Is there a secret I'm missing. I've tried making the base box in Fusion, Tinkercad, Bambu studio added fillets, chamfers, change thickness of walls nothing works.
I was having a really tough time getting the base to stick when designing SP7. Below is a photo from the bottom of an early experiment. Lots of things are going on. The red arrow shows the characteristics of the first lifting off the bed. The blue arrow shows the second lifting off the bed. It is likely more pronounced because most of the printing occurred after the second lift.
The blue squiggly line shows the first layer was probably pushing too hard into the bed. I may have overcompensated for parts not sticking by adjusting the first layer height to be too low.
There may have been other things going on as well. Cheap filament, wrong temperatures, dirty build plate, etc. It was printed on a Prusa MK3 using the default slicer settings for generic PLA. More recent slicer defaults have increased temperatures slightly. First layer speeds and extrusion rates may have also changed. I have also gotten better at adjusting the first layer heights for the proper amount of squishing without smearing.
The main reason for the "X" shaped design in SP7 was because of the layer adhesion issues I was having at the time. The shape quickly becomes narrow as it gets taller so there is very little force pulling trying to pull the corners off the build plate.
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https://youtube.com/shorts/4t3aFzj1e_Y?si=Pu5MQCqIPKNU-G2a
This one was actuallly printed last year; didnt have time to hang it
Color schemes copyrights belong to my daughers, it was a teamwork :)
Happy New Year!
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Hi Steve, firstly thank you for your amazing clock design! I've had fun building the SP5B in 8 day mode, but had some issues.
With a fully assembled test, sometimes it goes for 12 hours, sometimes for only 20 minutes, every time I start it again it seems to be random, but it's never been more than 12 hours. The pendulum swings around 2 to 3 degrees in either direction with a 2 Kg weight hinging directly without the pulley.
Sometimes I get the feel that it runs better after I've taken it all apart and put back together, or if I push the gears up or down on their arbours and start it again.
With the pendulum not connected to the escapement, it swings for around 6-7 minutes before stopping completely, I've tried 3 different types of bearings and tried IPA and white spirit to clean them that that's…
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I have made 3 of these clocks and all of them run slow. For example, I set the clock at 8:30. By 11:00 it was already showing 5 min slow. This is after I modified some of the gears. The modifications I made were to the gear that mounts to the motor (gear 6). I modified the hole to fit the shaft so it cannot slip at all.
I modified gear 5-15 and 5-30 to have a 22 mm round flat friction surface and cut a groove in one of the surfaces to fit an O-ring hoping to create more friction. I am using a silk filament for the gears and I noticed they slide easily when rubbed together so there was little friction between the gears. Hence this modification. I have been checking the clock regularly and they do not seem to be slipping now,
All the gears turn…
Figured it out. Had a bad solder joint on the Shield. LED's now flashing. Will test the clock now. Thank you for your help
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On the MyMiniFactory website for the "Electric Pendulum Clock" SP7, there is a statement:
" There have been reports that the only driver circuit available as of June 2025 is not compatible with this design. Please hold off on purchasing these plans until the design can be updated and tested with the new driver."
Is this the current status?
Also, is this mechanism on Amazon the same? It sure looks to be. :)
In the past, the coiled battery connector was an indication of a useable electronic module. I am not sure if this is still true, but that does appear to be a good controller.
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Hi Steve, I am just starting to assemble my SP14 clock. I ordered the parts on Etsy (Thank you!)
When I got to page 22 in the assembly guide it mentions a 75mm arbor in the 3mm section but the package from etsy does not contain it, it does look like there is an extra 75mm piano wire size is that what should be used instead. This might become clearer later but wanted to ask :) Thanks! Herbert
Hi Herbert,
Sorry for the missing part. Another builder also found the same missing part recently. Many kits in my inventory were also missing the 3mm x 3" arbor. I sent replacement parts to all purchasers back to November 1st, but it looks like I need to go back to at least the middle of October. A replacement part will be sent out with tomorrow's mail.
Steve
Yes, the pallet should use a 3.5" arbor and the only bearing size used is 623.
Thanks for catching these typos. I will update my copy and release it at the next convenient time.