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Hi,
I've designed a new bob, so it can be filled with bb gun snot as well, be about 100g heavier to improve Q, but most of all to look beautiful. And it does! :) here is free scad file if someone else finds it useful
Thank you
Slava
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Last week I acquired SP16 from myminifactory, and promptly decided I wanted to put my own face on it: normal (arabic) numerals, but with the hour and minute markings round the outside edge as on the dials with the Roman numerals. Because.
Anyway, I messaged Steve about it, and he promptly and kindly uploaded the dial parts in .step format, making it far easier to hack my own dial onto it.
The deed was therefore done, I printed everything, and did a pendulum swing test; after 20 minutes it was still moving quite perceptibly, so I finished the build and started it up with 1.8kg of diving weights hanging directly off it. After an hour the pendulum amplitude had settled at about 4.8° each side, then it gradually increased overnight to about 5.5° after 12 hours. I assume this means it is being run in, and friction is still decreasing.…
Looks great. The dial has really nice proportions.
Mechanically, reducing the winding drum diameter should have the same effect as a block and tackle. Both provide longer runtimes if the weight is increased.
The winding drum on this clock is just slightly larger than the lower support post, so a smaller diameter would cause the string to rub. This would require a secondary pulley. Or similar to some of Brian Law's clocks, attach the far end of the cord to the wall off to the side. This change reduces the weight pulling down on the frame.
Steve
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The rest of the clock seems to be working perfectly, but the moon dial is FLYING compared to how fast it should be going. Honestly, closer to a quarter turn each day. I haven't had the time to check, but I'm guessing that clutch set is too tight or maybe I have too strong a spring in it or something. Is it possible to have too strong or too weak of a pen spring? What are the optimal specs of the springs that should be used in the clutches? I've been using 0.5x5x20mm in the past without any noticeable trouble, so I never thought that they might be putting too much friction into the system. Now with adding the additional gears for the moon phase, it's made me think about that potential. I also have 0.3x4x25mm that I use for ratchet assembly.
Edit: After pulling things apart and taking a closer…
The normal operation of the moon dial is powered by the hour hand gear. Two stages of gear reduction turns the moon dial with a 59 day cycle. The moon phase friction clutch passes through gear 5 where there is room for the spring. Gear 5 sits between gear 9 and the moon phase friction clutch. The moon dial sits between gear 6 and the front frame. There is a lot going on in a very small space.
If the moon phase is rotating too fast, then the moon phase friction clutch is slipping. That alone doesn't indicate if it is an issue with the friction clutch or the gears binding up.
The easiest way to debug this would be to remove all the gears except the central arbor and the gear 5/9 arbor. This allows you to only the gears of interest. Rotate gear 4 to move the minute hand while observing the rest of the gears. There should be minimal resistance if all the downstream gears move freely as intended. If there is any binding, then rotating gear 4 would need enough force to allow a friction clutch to slip.
Steve
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Does anyone have a picture of the back side of their reed switch after soldering? I've soldered before, but am basically a novice and having difficulties making sure I understand the intent.
Yes here's the file plus an optional file of a little cover to cover the wires if you want to use it you have to glue it on
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I printed Steve's latest project and here's my summary of my observations, all positive:
- It prints without any problems
- Assembly is even easier than the other clocks (I printed and assembled the SP5, SP13, SP14, and SP15), just paying more attention to the correct spacing of the gears on the axes
- It works right out of the box with just 3 kg of weight on the pulley.
I actually think it could become the easiest and most convenient project for anyone wanting to get started in this fantastic hobby.
As usual, my compliments to Steve
Very well done! I'll have to tackle this as one of my next projects. The great thing about 3D printing as a hobby, you never run out of things to do
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Just posted. Read all about it here: https://keveney.com/posts/cycloidal-gears-for-fusion-360/ Or, just get the add-in code here: https://github.com/mkeveney/FusionCycloidalGears Still no support for 'perfect print' gears, but I'm thinking about it...
Matt,
I know this is not Steve's Clocks specific but I found your Cycloidal gear add-in for Fusion here. (My admiration for Steve and his Clocks is something I'll write about later.) Just goofing around with your plug in, I made a small gear train for a clock. I really didn't plan on any use, I was just toying with it. I added a stepper motor and used one of the glass sensors from the Steve's Coup Perdu to home the minute hand. It all worked so well, that I continued adding to the project to make a ships clock. Using a ESP32 and a GPS receiver, it keeps perfect time and chimes the ship's bell pattern. I've had it running for a couple weeks now. Thanks for a cool contribution that inspired something satisfying.
Jim
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Nice.
Double check the mounting screw depth and adjustment on the lower standoffs. There shouldn't be much sag with 6lbs of weight. Most of the designs build in about 0.01-0.02" of upward slant to account for some sag.
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After a few false starts on finding the old school electronics that run this clock I found some that fit and work. Video attached is just the weighted pendulum with no gears but I’ll work on them this weekend. Excited to see this run.
will be curious to see how well it keeps time. what old school electronics did you use?
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I've printed most of Steve's clocks, but I think the SP15 is the most beautiful!
It's not as huge as the SP14, which I also built, but it looks great in my studio.
I've attached a video of it running perfectly: I built it 8 months ago and it's never stopped!
Very precise, max a couple of minutes a week.
One small detail: it runs with just 2.5 kg on the pulley!!!
Looks good. Thanks for sharing the design.
Some of my clocks have an updated bob with more open space to fill with BBs.