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Thanks for all those tips. Yes the gears posted were completely un-optimized, and not sized for printing. I still need to experiment, but I am really happy with the initial results. But I still need to figure out some good default settings. Spokes and stuff like this are out of scope for now, but the coding is not that impressive, it's just AI that has become very impressive

I did actually print something already with this, a hour/minute train and even with zero optimization it worked great. I am not sure I fully understand the oval tip, could you post a picture?

SP15 might be a good start. I tried the bigger one SP14 and it worked fine.

Even you can buy all the parts on Amazone, Temu... I recommend to use the service provided by Steven, at least in the beginning. You get everything at once for a fair price.

I had a similar situation with a clock I made. In the end I fixed it by polishing the ends of the piano wire shafts, reaming the plastic housings a few .001 over the true diameter and applying light machine oil to each spot in the frame where the shafts turn.

Also make sure you have clearance end to end. Should be about 1/8” of space. The plastic gears aren’t metal and aren’t perfectly round and aligned. There needs to be clearance all around to account for movement.

Finally, just let it run a while and I bet it sorts itself out. After making those changes of course.

https://a.co/d/00e4CXgz

I just built this clock using this motor and its working well. I bought the 6v 50rpm version

Thanks for asking. A few step files are included in some of the designs for 3D printed customizations.

All of my designs are completely optimized for 3D printing. They include narrow spokea and rims with sharp fillets that work great when 3D printed. Every gear should be re-optimized for a CNC router. The frame also needs to be completely re-designed so it can be made from flat stock. The overall size may need to be increased so the gear teeth have the appropriate strength.

I have looked at converting a few designs. Every attempt becomes a complete re-design instead of a conversion. In my experience, the only parts that can be re-used are the gear ratios and the relative positioning of gears within the frame.

My plans include eventually designing some wooden gear clocks. So far, none have been completed. My recommendation would be to start with a clock design that is already optimized for CNC routing. Clayton Boyer, Brian Law, and WoodenTimes have plenty of designs to select, although I don't know if there are any with a moon phase.

Steve

It is a fascinating clock, but a horrible timekeeper. A tiny bit of dust changes the rate significantly.

I built a prototype tray for a similar clock years ago. It used a steel ball with contact wires to detect reaching the end of the track. An RC servo was used to tilt the table back and forth. A micro controller would control the RC servo and adjust the track tilt to keep the time accurate. The tilting track would ratchet the time forward. I realized that the clock could keep time by simply tilting the table every 15 seconds and the rolling ball becomes optional.

That is super cool. I wonder what all the movement does to the runtime. Each moving part is swinging at the same rate as the pendulum.

A simple pendulum swinging needs to restore very little energy to keep the clock running. Adding additional pivot points must add a lot of friction.

Não, sinto muito, não tem.