Just posted. Read all about it here: https://keveney.com/posts/cycloidal-gears-for-fusion-360/ Or, just get the add-in code here: https://github.com/mkeveney/FusionCycloidalGears Still no support for 'perfect print' gears, but I'm thinking about it...
Clock 13 Tuning notes
As noted in my 'show and tell' post, I did a hasty initial assembly and my clock ran for about 2 days on 4lb 6oz direct weight. Then it stopped and refused to restart.
My original bearings had metal seals that seemed impossible to remove. I got some of the rubber-seal type and removed the seals and lube per the instructions. The lube was a translucent stuff reminiscent of petroleum jelly. IPA didn't seem to dissolve it, so I used acetone.
I found that the dry graphite in the bearings seemed to make them worse, though I suppose it might improve if I ran it for a while to grind up the granules. This was one of the large skate bearings. I skipped it for the rest, and am running them dry. They appear to be chrome plated, so I don't expect corrosion to be m…
Quick followup:
My SP13 has now been running continuously for 6 days, with no signs of stopping.
I assembled the drive weight with pulley and enough shot to give 4lb 5oz. This is less than the safety margin recommended by the instructions, but it's been running so well, I'm inclined to leave it alone for now. The pendulum swings just a hair over 2° each side.
I adjusted the pendulum four times since making the drive weight, and think I now have it very close. I have not touched it in the last three days, and it's still within 30 seconds of true.
Very happy with the design.
-Matt
I made a comment in my Show-and-Tell post, that Steve replied to.
I have more info, but the discussion makes more sense here.
> I wrote:
> One minor hiccup was that the heads of the #6 screws
> on the ratchet (clicks) were running into the spokes of the
> ratchet wheel...
That is interesting. I have purchased those screws in the past and don't remember the heads being oversized so much. There is a lot of variability between brands though. An 82 degree countersink is a quick solution. This trick should get added to the assembly guides.
I order screws for the parts kits from McMaster-Carr, product number 90048A151. They are specified to have a head diameter of 0.262" and usually measure close to 0.25". I keep using them because they are extremely consistent across many orders.
Steve, I cannot find the parts kit for the SP5B on Etsy. Is there one? If so, can you link it here? Disclaimer: I haven't dug into the build notes and perhaps there's further info there.
Thanks!
The parts kit can be found at https://www.etsy.com/listing/1680180262/sp4bsp5b-easy-build-clock-parts-kit
Thanks for posting. Those are classic style cycloid gears. They should be perfectly functional, but the pinions will have a weak tooth base.
Perfect Print Gears are only slightly modified. The active surfaces are fairly similar. Most of the modifications are only to make the gears easier to 3D print. Many of my clocks with the updated gears were generated by rotating lines around to generate the active surfaces. I fiddled around with a Python app to automate the process but never got it to be fully stable.