Krys, So happy that the motorized weight is working out for you. I remember I stripped the gears on one of my motors and you are right reduce the weight and take some of the load off the motor. I also loaded the gear box with good quality grease. I have been spending mose of my time on the Ring Clock I am on number six at this time, making modifications to the design as I go. The Ring Clock is totally electronic with no moving parts and uses LEDs for displaying the time. On my lasest clocks I have added a chime that chimes on the hour the amount of the hour and als a small chime on the quarter hours. The one that I am working on now will also have the local weather in the center of the ring displayed on a four inch color display that receives its data from NTP for the time and OpenWeatherMap for the Weather. Hoppy

Krys, LOL, So glad you have it working now. Hoppy Holidays to you and your family. Hoppy

Krys, Good Day, It looks like you failed to make and install the wall bracket stop. The gear at the top on the clock works fine for stopping the motor but you must have a flat stop at the botton. I am pretty sure that file was included in the folder. You must use the wall bracket because the weight must be pushed up from the center. Print this file and install it and I am sure things will work much better. Here is the file for the bracket. Feel free to ask more if necessary . Hoppy

Krys, I am so happy for you. It has taken quite a while to get all the parts and getting it assembled. I have my clocks running for about 6 months now and I do beleve the batteries should last for over a year or more. I did some quick calculations and found they should last over 4 years, but don't rely on that. Krys, thank you for sharing your achievement and your very pretty clock. Hoppy

Making the chain into a loop seems to be a greater challenge than making the weight. : ) But the way that I opened the balls was with the cutter that came with my 3D printer and an exacto knife. Be very careful not to get blood on the chain. : ) Here is what I used to open the balls.....https://www.amazon.com/Ainiv-Spring-loaded-Diagonal-Precision-Electrical/dp/B0BW923RPQ/ref=sxin_15_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.9e5188ef-9cc8-48bb-b834-24761033aedf%3Aamzn1.sym.9e5188ef-9cc8-48bb-b834-24761033aedf&cv_ct_cx=side%2Bcutter%2Bpliers%2Bset&keywords=side%2Bcutter%2Bpliers%2Bset&pd_rd_i=B0BW923RPQ&pd_rd_r=81c147ca-dc20-49da-8c41-827daecf9c3d&pd_rd_w=ENmCG&pd_rd_wg=SEYKn&pf_rd_p=9e5188ef-9cc8-48bb-b834-24761033aedf&pf_rd_r=DWEP8GR4WFSF9CNJHZ94&qid=1702394449&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sr=1-5-364cf978-ce2a-480a-9bb0-bdb96faa0f61-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1. Sorry for such a long address but you can see what I am talking about. After I got the ball open and put in the dog bone link, then I soldered the seam of the ball to help it from coming open. MAKE SURE to do a pull test on the chain before installing it. The ball does not have to be perfectly round the sprockets are very forgiving. There are tools that are available to do this job but very expensive. Hoppy

That is great. Hope the weight works well for you. Keep me in the loop there may be things that I have experienced that I can pass along to you. Hoppy

Hi Steve, No I just used the ws2812B strip I set the strip sideways and made the defuser to capture the light. I have finished the clock and have it hanging on the wall in my lanai. I have a word clock that I just finished too. That was a very fun project as well. I saw many word clock designs but thought I would like to design my own from scratch. The sketch ended up with over 700 lines of code a lot more coplex that I thought it would be and I used the WS2821B (168 LEDs) strips in it as well. I will include a photo. There is also a "PLUS 1 2 3 4 MINS" on the next to the last line. Just happens to be TWENTY FIVE after when I took the photo. I used a ESP32 module and took advantage of the wifi by connecting to NTP that keeps it very accurate. It is hard to see the letters that are not illuminated because I installed a plexaglass with automobile tinted window film over the face. I just about maxed out my printers build plate. Fun project!! Hoppy

I have received wrong items too. Just glad I could help. One thing I would like to share with you. Yesterday the ball chain on my 32 day clock broke and when investigating the cause I found that I had not joined the ends with a good crimp and one end of the wire that forms the link came out of the ball causing the weight to drop to the floor. Hoppy

I was conserned that I had sent the wrong files, but I am so happy that you have resolved the problem. I have received the wrong idem from amazon as well. I was so conserned that the large sprocket was wrong that I printed the file over night and when I inspected it this morning I was very happy that it was correct. Keep in touch. Hoppy

Looks like you were sent #10 chain, here is my source.....https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018641ZMS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Hoppy

Krys, I printed the same file you have and tried the ball chain in it, The fit was perfect. I will send a photo. Hoppy

On thing I forgot to mention, lay your chain out strait and tight and there should be 67 balls to one foot (12 inches).

I am reprinting the sprock and will check out the ball chain fit. Will let you know what I find. Hoppy

I made so many changes to the large sprocket for the different gears to fit I can't remember whitch sprocket is the one that I am using. I thought I put the correct one in the zip file. Please give me the complete name of the file you printed so I can determain if you have the correct file. Hoppy

I will investage to make sure that the file that I included is correct for its spacing.

Hi Krys Here is the link for the ball chain https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018641ZMS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I looked a the ball chain that you received and I dont see any problem. What part do you think that your chain is not fitting? If it is too large to fit in the slot on the main body then it won't work. It should look like the photo that I sent you. One other thing, making the loop is a challenge because you have to open one of the balls and insert the small wire, close it and make sure that it is strong and can carry the weight. Hoppy

Krys, I have a large bag of lead shot that I use. And with that I filled the weight cavity about half, maybe just a bit more. It seems that the two crazy gear clocks didn't require as much weight as the 32 day clock. And I am using gear 7 on both SP 12 clocks. This is the battery box that I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09HF42V3G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 It fits very nicly in the weight housing. The micro switch is here,.......lhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073TYWX86/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Hope this helps. Hoppy

Krys, The way that the rod is accuated is from the outer shell. It is made up from two outer shells held toghther with magnets. I think the file is called WeightShellslide.stl make two of these to go on the outside of the weight body. See photo at the begining of the post. The outer shell is able to slide up and down on the main weight body, when it goes to the lower limit wall bracket it is pushed up making the brass rod move up and allowing the switch to make contact the when the when the weight moves up the shell is pushed back down when it hits gear 8 that breaks contact to the motor and the cycle starts over again when the weight hits the lower limit (WallBracket). I think you will be able to understand the sequence when you get some of the parts printed. Just remember the outer shell plays an important role in the operation and must be able to slide freely on the weight body. The brass rod must be cut just a bit shorter than the inside of the outer shells. The lower weight is very important to keep tention of the lower part of the ball chain to prevent the chain from getting rapped up the motor sprocket. So when testing the motorized weight you must have everythig in place as though it is on the clock. If you have any more questions please feel free to contact me. Oh one other thing when installing the magnets on the shells make sure the north pole is faceing out on one shell and the soth pole is facing our on the other. They can be held in with CA glue. Hoppy

Yes you are correct, I started out using gear 8 as shouwn in the first photo. And yes the weight is off center and making it nessary to install a second screw on one of the leveling legs. Gear 7 is a much better choice and uses less weight. I have included an stl file to modify gear 7. The chain sprocket (78) will press fit on to the spokes of the modified gear. Maybe some CA glue to just make sure it stays in place. I left gear 8 in my design however you may want to use the one with the smallest spool because the ball chain will contact the spool as it leaves gear 7 chain sprocket. Don't hesitate to contact if you have any other questions. Hoppy

Krys, The MotorweightSTLs file is complete except for one part and that is the motor sprocket. I have made some changes to improve its reliability. I have changed the sprocket so that it can have a full rap of ball chain and also put two set screws in it as well. There is a great amout of toque on the sprocket so when you print it put the small end on the build plate and print at 100% fill this will improve strength and the motor gear cavity. One other thing I changed was the number of teeth on the sprocket from 14 to 15 this increased the diameter and allowed me to encrease the wall thickness in the gear box cavity. I also might recommend a locking set screw on top of the first screw. Only fill the weight cavity with enought weight to operate the clock to minimize the stress on the motor gears. Be sure to lubricate the gears with a good grease. The hole for the motor shaft is quite tight you may have to force it on to the shaft. I have three clocks that I am using this battery powered weight on and they all seem to be working quite well.