SP17 Clutch Slipping
Have SP17 running very well, however, I do seem to have slippage in the wire clutch setup. I seen that a few people have had this problem.
Any hints how to make the clutch "stronger".
Cheers
Krys S
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Debug Hints
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Me Again.....V4 Problems Persist
After fixing the edit 3 wiring on my V4 and replacing all the components, I upload the sketch and get the following in Serial Monitor:
www.stevesclocks.com clock movement - Rev 2.08
Waiting for RTC...
www.stevesclocks.com clock movement - Rev 2.08
Waiting for RTC...
Still no movement on my stepper. I apologize for so many questions, but I'm this is really getting frustrating. Thanks, All!
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Cutting Piano Wire
I'm new here (and to building Steve's wonderful clocks), so I apologize if some of my questions are trivial. I'm at the very early stages of my new hobby, and have encountered some expected pitfalls. The most pertinent one is cutting and using this 1.5mm piano wire. I'm using the dremel cutting wheel, and even when cutting at a cross-diagonal from the the stranding and with the cutting rotation aligned with the strand direction, I'm still plagued with sloppy ends. This, of course, makes alignment and insertion into the top frame holes all but impossible. Is there a trick to prevent the ends from unwinding and expanding into an unmanageable diameter? Or, am I better off just switching to copper or SS stock? Thanks, All!
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Onomas
2 days ago
I purchased the kit for my first clock. THe kit was so well assembled that I'd never think of cutting my own piano wire, or cleaning my own bearings, or finding all the other parts to build one clock.
For the price of the kit I saved myself ten hours of chasing down parts.
You even get Steve's own personal business card printed on a 3D printer. It will set the bar of expectations higher still.
CNC Shield V4 Back-side - Check Work?
Good Morning.....Could someone please check my work on the back-side solder mods on this CNC board? I'm getting lights, am able to upload Steve's sketch, but getting no movement on my stepper. The 6 mods on the back side of the PCB are what I suspect may be the problem. Thanks in advance for your help!
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I am curious why a few builders have mentioned issues with the new wire clutch. I find it to be more consistent than the pen spring version. It does require stiff wire that springs back. I use steel with a diameter of 0.060" (1.52mm). I should do some bending tests to find out the exact characteristics. When assembled on a 3mm arbor, a 5.5g weight hanging on the teeth will hold steady and a 6.5g weight will slip.
The balls should protrude high enough above the surface of the ball drops that the next ball rolls over the top of the first ball and lands on the edge of the ball cup. It should not fall into a pocket in the ball cup. It also should not push the ball aside and have to climb over the first ball.
There is practically zero friction loading balls from the upper ramp on my clock even with a completely full ramp. If your clock is different, I would like to understand why and find a solution. Friction at the upper ramp should be obvious when loading balls for the first time. Can you try to figure out where the friction is coming from? Does the next ball fall into a pocket? Or does it fall behind the first ball?
I am using 3/4" carbon steel balls that ship with a light oil coating. They feel identical to chrome steel balls that I purchased but have not loaded into the clock yet.