I am interested in SP11, and am wondering if you sell a parts kits for this model? I purchased the kits for my other two wall clocks.
I actually found this for $48 dollars... does it include everything I need to build the clock? Board and parts? https://www.etsy.com/listing/1464560995/silent-shield-clock-controller?variation0=3431579134
Thanks! Steve
SP13 clock, the gears are all running well - been ticking away for 4 days now.
The problem is that the hands aren't moving - and I believe that gear 4a is not driving gear 4b through the friction spring.
I have checked 4b is locked properly to the arbour with the M3 screw, so it seems it is 4a freely rotating and not driving the arbour (and 4b) through the spring.
Any tips for debugging this specific issue? Thanks!
Quick question for the group - my clock is running perfectly on 2.7kg (~6lbs) main weight, but I am sure it will run on a lot less. Is there an advantage one way or the other to using more or less weight? Pendulum is currently plus/minus 14 degrees of arc.
I designed my own weight shell to suit a large lead ingot I had in, so it's a bit of a mission to cut sections off the ingot to try it (would be easier with lead shot obviously).
The rest of the clock seems to be working perfectly, but the moon dial is FLYING compared to how fast it should be going. Honestly, closer to a quarter turn each day. I haven't had the time to check, but I'm guessing that clutch set is too tight or maybe I have too strong a spring in it or something. Is it possible to have too strong or too weak of a pen spring? What are the optimal specs of the springs that should be used in the clutches? I've been using 0.5x5x20mm in the past without any noticeable trouble, so I never thought that they might be putting too much friction into the system. Now with adding the additional gears for the moon phase, it's made me think about that potential. I also have 0.3x4x25mm that I use for ratchet assembly.
Edit: After pulling things apart and taking a closer…
The normal operation of the moon dial is powered by the hour hand gear. Two stages of gear reduction turns the moon dial with a 59 day cycle. The moon phase friction clutch passes through gear 5 where there is room for the spring. Gear 5 sits between gear 9 and the moon phase friction clutch. The moon dial sits between gear 6 and the front frame. There is a lot going on in a very small space.
If the moon phase is rotating too fast, then the moon phase friction clutch is slipping. That alone doesn't indicate if it is an issue with the friction clutch or the gears binding up.
The easiest way to debug this would be to remove all the gears except the central arbor and the gear 5/9 arbor. This allows you to only the gears of interest. Rotate gear 4 to move the minute hand while observing the rest of the gears. There should be minimal resistance if all the downstream gears move freely as intended. If there is any binding, then rotating gear 4 would need enough force to allow a friction clutch to slip.
Steve
After some minor tweaks, my 12-day clock ran for 2+ weeks including a winding or two and was keeping excellent time. It's using 4.4 kg of weight with the fishing line loop as designed. Although the weight is a touch heavy, I was just happy it was running so well. Then I woke up one morning and it had stopped. I was able to get it to run again for anywhere from minutes to hours by making minor adjustments but then it would stop.
I took the fishing line loop out and suspended 2.2 kg directly planning to run it without the escapement but before I could do that, it's back to running like a champ again--16 hours straight. I tried the loop with 4.4 kg and it stopped again. As I write this, it's running great with 2.2 kg direct hang.
Any ideas what could be going on?
If the clock works with 2.2kg direct and stops with 4.4kg plus a pulley, and nothing else changed, then the pulley must be the problem. More likely, something else changed. It is easy to check the pulley just in case.
Two things to check after the clock stops are the escapement and the pendulum. It's even better if you can observe the clock just before it stops. Does the pendulum slowly lose amplitude? Or is the escapement losing energy?
Move the pendulum back and forth slowly while observing the escapement. Does it have the same energy as before? Then check the beat. Does the escapement tick and tock at equal amplitudes from side to side?
This clock has a friction sensitivity with gear 3 and the escapement. Sometimes when the clock is being adjusted, the frame can be squeezed and the escapement shaft collars get moved. This can push against the escapement. The slightest amount of side thrust against the escapement can stop the clock.
Hopefully, this provides some help.
Yes. The electronics and hardware parts kits are available at Silent Shield Clock Controller - Etsy