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Printed Clocks

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Dirk Nansen
Dirk Nansen

Modification to moon phase clock pallet


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I have made five of these clocks and generally they work very well. Beautiful design. I did have one clock that ran well for a couple months then began stopping after a few hours. Cleaned the bearings again and ran it free without the escapement for three days for "break in" but little improvement. Also tried replacing the pendulum bearings with more expensive parts that did run more free and made sure all the gears were turning easily and had some end play. But it would still stop. After studying the way the escapement gear interfaced with the tips of the pallet I tried rounding the corner of the pallet tips to transfer energy to the pallet more easily (see picture) and it has been running continuously for a period of weeks with no other changes. The pendulum now settles in with slightly more amplitude than before. I am now modifying the pallets on all of my clocks the same way. I am considering doing something similar to the escapement gear though it would be easier to simply modify the STL form rather than work on each gear tooth.

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Steve
Steve
Nov 08, 2024

It's good to hear you got it working. PrusaSlicer has slowly been increasing the default elephant foot compensation from 0.12mm or 0.15mm up to 0.2mm. I sometimes bump it to 0.22 to reduce retractions on the first layer.


Some filaments do seem a bit stickier than others. There is always some sliding motion when the gears mesh. Sticky filament makes it worse. One thing that can help is reducing the interlocking of the layer line ridges. Start with small layer heights for the gears. 0.15mm is usually good. Even better are different layer heights for alternating gears. For example, 0.15mm for the even number gears and 0.17mm for the odd number gears. Then if the ridges line up at one location, they will not be able to line up at the next location. A thin coat of lithium grease on the pinions seems to help also.

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