I ended up with the V1.2 TMC2208 they seem to work fine for the sp10. The biggest difference I can tell is the potentiometer is underneath instead of on top. So, you have to pull the board to make adjustments. Other than that, seems to work clock is keeping good time. I ended up with about 3/4 turn on pot to run good half and below would chatter unloaded. Does this seem correct adjustment as the other version Steve? And what is the version your using seemed to have missed that in the instructions.

Hands are printed with Hilbert Curve on the face looks good but sort of loses itself in contrast. I'm thinking instead of the purple to outline in red filament to see if it stands out more. Thanks for the complement. That clock is running the 11 day gear with 6lbs 12oz weight reliably. I added a few bearings here or there.

Well! the clock is running. What a bugger to dial in must have taken it apart 10 times ha! It's really a work of art from very good designer tho. Had to go with the 8-day gear and extra weight extension. Filled the two jar BB's finish filling with pennies all in about 10.5lbs weight. For some reason the tiny inner ring on the face did not print well just peeled it off. Funny cause the outer ring was over extruded heated or whatever. Other than that, it's a work of art but really love a functional clock. A few pictures on the wall included. Now with the comment done the questions. Steve have you ever given thought for 623 bearings on the main arbor gear 4-36-8 and one in the rear for gear 6-32. That seemed to be where I had the most binding up. Afterward dialing in the pallet and pendulum was swinging free made it run. I tried super lube in the bearings at my first mistake. They need to be free of any lube least in my case. Then dry powdered Teflon was even bigger mistake. The best I came up with to get it to run was a little super lube on the shafts and pallet lands. Great print will update later on the run time and keeping time ha! Oh! one more do you think 10.5lbs is too much weight?

This is where I'm at so far got a few gears in there. Minute shaft is notched probably the hardest part. I know I wouldn't make a clocksmith ha!

Sure does never thought to use that, thanks.

Hope you guys don't mind a lot of questions. But here goes, does anyone know the length of the notch on the sp12 minute hand arbor. I know instructions say print the hand and fit it, but it would be nice to know the exact length to cut. It would be easier with that measurement. Thanks. and for some reason correcting spelling tries to add an underline link on the typing I can't get rid of editing ha!

Sounds good to me. I thought maybe it was if you didn't have a printer bed big enough or something like that. Thanks for the reply I'll go with the normal first and hope it works out.

fixing it 235c sorry

I've only used the bambu silk filament it works well. Nozzle temp about 235c degrees and slow down to about 1/3 than bambu recommends. Printing on a P1S what I found is set it hotter and slower than regular PLA. If you're printing on something else test it till you get stringing and dial it back a bit. Layer adhesion with silk can be a problem too cold. I baby sit mine on small overhangs and small towers where the printer is not moving much and drop the temp 5 degrees or so and turn up the air to full. Silk filament can make a beautiful finish but if you have to sand anything it ruins the shine. Hope this helps. Oh! by the way this is my first post on this forum. Love the clock building have a few older metal gear clocks. My first venture too in 3d printing clocks.