@Steve I used the initial layer width adj in cura to deal with elephants foot. The results were pleasing and gave that edge a slightly rounded look and feel. -0.125 worked well. However the top part of the gears where not extended into the moving path but they were quite sharp. I went over them all with 600 emery. It would be nice if there was a setting to reduce the top layer as well. That would be ideal. I suspect that the frame may have been printed not 100% perfect. I can print a 30mm cal cube in the center of the bed dead on perfect, but whos to say whats happening at the outter edges. Its a belt driven unit. No linear rails. There is nothing like the feeling of getting an old clock running. I have had folks drag there old, tired, beaten brass units to me from all over. Into the cleaner they go, install a few bushings, maybe a click spring or suspension spring, oil em' up and start em up. Its a great feeling once it up and running and you get the beat spot on. Thats my idea of excitement. I got that with this project. I guess im an odd duck. :) At some point when i get a chance, I will share my tested and proven method of a printable zero friction pendulum hanger. It really is slick. First did it in wood. But can easily be printed with great results. Cheers.

@Steve Yes, understood. My brain was in radius mode : However its finished and running well. I printed gear#4 one tenth smaller and that seemed to be the answer. Its run continuous and reasonably smooth for the last 36 hours. It needs some time to break in. Im sure power transfer will improve over time. The pendulum in running a bit long, but i feel with will improve as things wear in. Thanks for your effort and help. Heck of a project. I will be doing this one again in another colour scheme then trying out your larger wall clock. Well done Steve. Thank you.

@Steve I printed the new 3, 4 gear set. Right off the bat, the clock was stopping at the same point every hour without fail. It seems like the 3, 4 clearance at the point was maybe a wee bit too tight. So I loaded up the 4-1 STL into Cura. I decided to look at the gear size. I was surprised to see X and Y were different in size. I immediately check all the other gears, and X and Y are all the same. Which is what i would expect. Its this a boo boo or a cura problem. Take a look at the below photo. What do you think? What size should that gear be? ::update:: I have measured all the other #4's I have printed and they are out of round..

Thank you, Ive been chasing a bug that is best described as an issue surrounding this gear set. Power waxes and wanes. (the sound of the tick tock gets loud... then soft) Ill bet this is the issue as this is where I've traced it back to. Cheers

@Steve Where can I find these updated gears??

@StevePhew. Some details to spot up... and i think done. Seems to be running stable on about 7.75 lbs of weight currently. Impulse seems good. The sound of the beat is much more constant after some free running to break in. https://youtu.be/wecnO_6s8Ko

@Steve In 1998 I was part of a team part of a team that created a weight driven 8 day wall hanging clock made from Russian Baltic Birch plywood. This was cut on a 2Kw laser. We developed this unit to run very well. It was my intention to move on and design a mantle clock using stacked wooden leaf springs to power the unit. However sadly this never got off the ground as the folks that owned and operated the 2Kw laser kinda ran away with our designs and started making their own....(our!) clocks called the dancer. Everything kinda fell apart at that point. I left the team. However this idea is not dead with me. I presented it to you as you have seem to have done all the leg work on the gear train and adding printed spring power is only a small leap away. Thought the concept might interest you. I see you moved on to stepper drive and magnetic pulse, but this spring idea is not metal or electric and could be printed or made from Baltic birch ply. Here are some photos of those days so long ago. Its nice to be back :) Cheers

@Steve Sadly the issue is with the firmware of the machine. Its a known issue. I have a better firmware package to upgrade to that sorts this issue out, but I dont wish to change it in the middle of this project as its going quite well at this point. However My dial turn out very well.

@Steve Ok thanks Steve. Having a great time printing your large easy build. So far its gone quite well. The back frame is just finishing printing today and i have the spacers and weight shell yet to do. If this one works out well I think I will also do your large wall clock next. Will there be updated Higher Res STLs at some point or does that present a problem? Cheers

@Steve Ok thanks for the response. I have the easy build one. I didnt notice the v groove had a spiral in it till you pointed it out. Nerve racking day today. Printing the dial. My firmware doesnt support "Stop at Height" but does kinda sorta support "Stop at Layer". I have to execute it with G4 S300 command to get it to stop and wait. No alarm so i have to watch for it to stop, then i got 5 minutes to swap colours and flush the nozzle. At 5 minutes it resumes, whether im ready or not :) -Tell me, are these shafts suppose to rotate in the frame or in the gear shaft? Cheers and thanks :)

@Steve Although im not done printing all the parts, I have just finished the pallet pendulum rod and bob. I see no way to adjust the beat other than to move the base of the clock left or right. Is this correct? Thanks.

@Steve Although im not done printing all the parts, I have just finished the pallet pendulum rod and bob. I see no way to adjust the beat other than to move the base of the clock left or right. Is this correct? Thanks.

@Steve I am considering updating my firmware to the insanity automation package as my factory firmware doesnt wish to pause at height for the dial. I do have a pause at layer work around that Ive tested. Seems to work. But everyone is raving about the insanity automation package for the Ender 5 Pro. ... So we'll think on it. Right the way it is seems to be working out fine.

@Steve Ok, I think i have all the hard to find stuff on order. In the meantime, I thought I would print a few gears. I have a Ender 5plus that is very sharply dialed in. I am noticing the center hole of the escape wheel is smaller than 1.5mm. I see notes in the manual suggesting maybe a drill out is in order. Is this a normal out come or do i have a setting in Cura wrong? Cheers

How about this stuff? KNS504 - Music Wire 36" .062" (1/16") By K&S ENGEERING @ Great Hobbies Its a little thicker than 0.059.....1.5mm

Steve Would this work for the 1.5mm music wire? Fielect 1.5mm Round Rod 20Pcs Stainless Steel Silver Tone Solid Core for Model Plane Model Ship 40x1.5mm : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific

Ok, Thanks anyways. I dont have this stuff locally available to me. I live in the north. I would have to make several orders from many sources and shipping would be much more. Due to this sadly I must give it a pass for now. Shame. I am a classically trained clock smith. Let me know if you ever decide to make a pin kit. Cheers