Hi Steve, A final report. The clock is going really well. Has been going for over a week now. Have got it accurate to about 15-20 seconds a day. This seems to be temperature dependant to some extent. Thanks for a great design once again. krys S

Thanks Steve, I am actually getting a double tick very occasionally which I did not register at first. Sorry for the false alarm. The clock is actually going really really well.

Hi Maximillian. I followed Steves pendulum clock construction tips and tried to minimise friction to a minimum and hence had a large amplitude. Note that currently you have nothing in your clock apart from the main shaft and your drivetrain friction will be zero. I started by installing a random static and activbe pawl to understand how the thing works. Because of my large amplitude of swing, I was getting a number of "2 second" pushes. I went for the largest active pawl with the smallest active pawl connector at the top of the pendulum shaft. I think that without the electronics, and having the clock fully running in a stable state condition with all gears assembled and connected, you will not know what your swing amplitude will be and you cannot make the correct adjustment of the pawls.

HI Steve, Have the clock going. I am using the longest active paw attached to the top of the pendulum with one of the smaller holders. The amplitude of the swing is quite large. Am using the medium static paw. Have tried to adjust it so that it can tolerate some voltage sag from the batteries as they age. Have no ide if the amplitude will change much as the batteries loose their charge. Once again, thanks for many hours of fun. Now to make a couple more clocks as they are becoming popular amongst my friends. Krys S

Hi Steve, Not too sure if your interested but will let you know how I have gone. I am using a Creality Ender 5 with an SKR Mini motherboard upgrade. The internal distance between the front frame and the back frame at the base is 81.6mm which relates well with your measurement of 81.79. At the top of the frame where the back and front frames are held together by a screw was measured at 81.35mm so approximately square. The external measurement of the clock at the top is 98.1mm. There was no way that I could fit a 95mm arbour at the top and be able to screw the top frames together. I took this down to about 92.5mm and this now fits together snuggly and the pendulum is still swinging well. I also found that I had to gently tap the 95mm arbours that go into the back frame. The hole in the extensions from the frame had a very accurate dimension, however, the hole in the frame was slightly closed over and I struggled to find a long enough 1.5mm drill bit to drill out the hole in the frame. Probably a trap for young players. I now have most of the gears fitted in the clock. Gear 3 is still printing. If work doesn't get in the way, I will have a go at the paws tomorrow night and should definitely have the thing going over the weekend. Many thanks for a great design which provides many hours of fun. Krys S

Hi Massimiliano, I live in Australia so delivery times maybe slightly different, however, all of these pendulum parts come from China. Shipping from China always seems to take a while. Unless you can find someone local (in Europe) that resells this item, unfortunately, you are in for a wait. I purchased 4 of the pendulums on the 20th of December and am still waiting for delivery which is scheduled for early March.

Hi Steve, Many thanks for the design. The first gear is on the printer as I write this.

Massimiliano, This is what you want for the pendulum clock.

Hi Guys, I also used dry lubricant and this "sort of helped" but the clock still stopped every now and then. After applying some lithium grease about a month ago, the pendulum swing amplitude increased immediately and the clock has not stopped yet. Krys S

Great news Steve. Been waiting for this one for a while

Hi Greg, I print on an ender 5. I have had this problem on mine and it has always been associated with the adhesion of the first layer and this is usually associated with incorrect bed levelling and/or dirty bed. I usually run some isopropyl alcohol on my bed every now and then and also level the bed very carefully. On some of the smaller gears which do not have a lot of surface area for adhesion, I sometimes use blue painters masking tape on the bed. This has always great adhesion even to the point of making it difficult to take the printed piece off the printer. Hope that this helps.

I have applied dry PTFE lubricant onto my "big" 21 day clock to try and get it running. The lubricant certainly helped for a while, but sooner or later the clock still stopped. I have reprinted some of the gears, filed the teeth, increased the diameter of the holes for the arbours but none of this has really helped. I have printed a total of 4 clocks, 2 big and 2 smaller. I have had more luck with PLA Silk than normal PLA, but this is probablynthe type of PLA SIlk that I buy here in Australia