Hi Steve, The local filament supplier has discounts on their filaments and have been toying with the idea of buying some wood filament and printing the deadbeat version of your coup perdu using this wood filament. Have you had any experience in using wood filament and would the frictional forces be too high for this clock. I presume that unlike PLA I would probably need to sand/polish the gear teeth?? Any thoughts??? Cheers Krys S

Hi Steve, Have decided to build two samples of your latest clocks. One with the coup perdu option and the second with the deadbeat option. I have the coup perdu running without the pendulum bob which is still on the printer. Steve, this clock came together without a hitch. It was a breeze. No filing, not fitting required. About the only thing that I had to do was drill out the holes for the arbours. This was the easiest clock to get going so far. I did have one thing that I am still playing about with. The position on the flipper where the magnet is to be glued, seem to be too closes to the hinge and when the flipper moves out of the way, the magnet is still close to the reed switch and it does not want to switch off and hence the rewind motor does not want to stop. At the moment, I have just put the felt pad just near the hinge to decrease the magnetic field reaching the reed switch. This seems to work. I am however thinking about moving the magnet further up the flipper to increase the distance between reed switch and the magnet. The reed switches that I brought were the ones that you recommended from Amazon. Many thaks Krys S

Hi Steve, Firstly, congratulations on the new clock design. Looks great. I am about 25% of the way through printing all of the parts. Now that I have seen how your are doing the Coup Perdu rewind, I cannot get out of trying to think how to "electrify" my 32 day pendulum clock. I was thinking about getting rid of gear 7 (Rachet), Gear 8 (Winding Drum) and Gear 9 and replacing this with you motor winding system. I was thinking about connecting the winding system to gear 4 printed with the 4 day option. Obviously the gears would have to be designed to properly mesh. Do you think that the weight that is currently being used for the Coup Perdu clock would be sufficient to run the pendulum clock or would this have to be increased. If it would require an increase, do you think the N20 motor would have to be replaced with something bigger (something like Clayton Boyer's motor for the Swing time)?? How doable do you think this would be? Cheers Krys S

Hi Steve, Just played your YouTube video on your coup perdu movement. Looks great. Not too sure if my wife will agree to another clock in our living room. Anyway, considering the fact that this is going to be a desktop clock and that the weight required is small, this would mean that the winding of the weight will be interesting to give a long runtime. Are you looking at using a small geared motor to provide the energy to wind the weight up every few minutes. Great work Krys S

Hi Steve. Just wondering if you have any new possible future projects in the pipeline. cheers Krys S

Hi Steve, Work has let off a bit and over the weekend I managed to get the pendulum electric clock dialled in. I actually used all of the techniques for minimising friction that you mention for the pendulum wall clocks and hence my amplitude is rather large and I had to have a few goes at tweaking the length and position of the static and active paws. I am now pretty sure that I do not get any "2 second" pushes which would make the clock run fast. I will be checking this over the next few days. It actually looks really great. However, with the pendulum bob all the way at the bottom I am seeing the clock running about 1 to 2 minutes fast for every hour. Assuming that I do not get any 2 second pushes I'm really not sure how to slow it down because the period of the pendulum is governed by the length of the pendulum and I cannot take the bob any further down. Any ideas?? Krys S

Hi Steve. Have now printed all of the parts for the new Pendulum clock. I really like how you designed the way the small gear 2 fits onto the main ratchet. Very neat. I also like the way that you have made the option of using screws rather than a press/tight fit. I always found the tight fit to be tricky to get correct. I have installed the electronics and have successfully had the pendulum swinging for the last 48 hour. The amplitude is quite large and will certainly look great. I have now started to try and put the thing together. I have a few questions as I am having problems with measurements and getting the basics of the clock together. Tonight, I wanted to get the centre gear cluster and the pendulum together to see how the thing fits, however, I am having some problems. My first questions refers to your drawings and 75mm arbours. I have cut all of the arbours and I was under the impression that the 4 x 75mm long arbours/rods are for connecting the front legs to the main front dial. In your drawings you mention 75mm arbours but never mention the 95mm arbours which I have cut three of??? The 95mm main 3mm arbour seems to be too long?? Before shortening it, I thought that I would ask your opinion. If I use the 95mm arbour with the bearings, I cannot bring the front of the clock together square with the bottom frame. Even if I just place the 95mm arbour without the bearings it still seems too long. I hope that my above comments are understandable and make sense. If not I can send some photos. Many thanks in advance Steve and hope that these questions do not take too much of your time.